Tue 9 Feb 2010
Sticky Rice and Saffron Robes
Posted by Jun Alday under Architecture, Arts and crafts, Buddhism, Culture, Markets, Religion, Religious, Temples, Traditions, Travel
1 Comment
Sticky rice, the staple in Laos, is steamed over wood fire in a special basket.
Laos when I first went there in 1997 was still pretty much disconnected from the rest of the world. At that time, Laos, once dubbed ‘The Kingdom of a Million Elephants,’ has not yet joined the ASEAN and going there entails getting a visa. In fact, from Vientiane, the capital, one needs an internal visa to go to Luang Prabang. I was not aware of this until my departure to Thailand when an immigration officer fined me for not obtaining prior permit for Luang Prabang.
But much has changed since then as this land-locked country eventually opened up and became a member of the ASEAN. Today, ASEAN citizens need not get a visa to visit Laos. As a way of announcing to the world that Laos is ready for foreign tourists, it hosted last year’s Southeast Asian Games. Luang Prabang is now more accessible with direct flights from other cities like Bangkok, Cheng Mai, Hanoi and Phnom Penh.
Two young novices in saffron robes gamely pose in their temple grounds. I went there again recently to visit a good friend, Sandra, whom I have known from my Hong Kong days and who has for the past 13 years lived and worked in Laos. Sandra Yuck’s Caruso Lao in Vientiane and Luang Prabang has made a mark to the very discriminating buyers who want fine Laotian craftmanship. Her exquisite woven textiles and interior accessories can be found in the newly opened Amantaka and she recently opened a boutique in this exclusive hotel. Sandra and myself in the second floor of Caruso Lao shop. The ground floor of Caruso Lao displays wood craft. The shop is located in the main road and is housed in a French colonial shop house. I am glad to have stayed at Villa Senesouk, a nice but modestely priced hotel with free wifi in the room. Located in Sakkarine Road, it is right across Wat Sensoukharam. From the balcony of my room I could watch the morning rituals of alms giving. View of my hotel from Wat Sensoukharam. After waking up at 4 am by the sound of bells which I can hear from my room, the monks do their morning chanting before trooping the streets for the morning ritual of alms 'begging' at around 6 am. It is an event participated not only by locals but also by tourists who wants to gain merit in one of the most honored tradition in Theravada Buddhism. Sometimes though, insensitive and ignorant tourists forget that this is a religious event and not some photo op. This picture was taken from my hotel balcony. In this ritual, the bare-footed saffron-robed monks parade in single file and pause to receive offerings, mostly sticky rice, in their begging bowls. It is the offerer not the offered who makes grateful gestures. The cold January morning can be seen from the misty background. My hotel does not have any food outlet but it is no big deal as there are plentiful of places to eat close by. This charming small hotel across my hotel is where I take my breakfast. I love the banana plant sprounting in the corner of the veranda by the sidewalk. Waiting for my Asian style breakfast to be served in the veranda. Another place for breakfast is this French cafe and bakery serving freshly baked croissants. A nicely presented lunch of fish and chips and green salad at 3 Mango Nagas restaurant of the boutique hotel 3 Nagas by Alila. They serve fusion Asian and Western cuisine. Luang Prabang is hardly polluted from vehicular traffic as people either walk or bike. There are a lot of al fresco restaurants. The choice of food is international and priced reasonably. Under coconut trees and looking down the Khan River, it is so pleasant to hang out in these open air restaurants to watch the local scenery unhurriedly go by. Rows of Lao style wooden houses with picket fences line the uncluttered and clean street. An interesting staircase leads to a second floor veranda overlooking the street and the river. The low wooden picket fence testify to the peace and order of Luang Prabang. Everything seems to blend unobtrusively in this street facing the river. Adrian Zecha's latest baby the Amantaka Hotel in Luang Prabang recently opened. The existing single story group of buildings were extensively refurbished to highlight the French colonial architecture. The name Amantaka is derived from aman meaning 'peace' in Sanskirt and taka, from Tipitaka, meaning the 'teachings of Buddha' in Therevada scholastic literature. The Sri Lankan style sofa in one of the suites reminds of the piece I used in the foyer of Adrian Zecha's Altadina Aparments in Hong Kong over 30 years ago. The swimming pool serves as the focal point of the sprawling property. Dinner by the poolside of Maison Souvannaphoum with Sandra and Felipe of Amantaka. The beautifully presented deep fried Mekong River fish. A visit to Luang Prabang is not complete without going to the night bazaar which is down the road from my hotel. Local traders here sell a whole variety of merchandise: puppets, woven textiles, clothing, ceramics, antiques, paintings and even rare spices, coffee and tea. Foldable hanging laterns made of saa paper in different designs and shapes are inexpensive souvenirs. When the night bazaar closes, Luang Prabang also turns in. There is virtually no activity after midnight.
