Archive for May, 2009

Under the coconut trees on top of the sand,  a blue tent arises.

Under the coconut trees on top of the sand, a blue tent arises.

Once upon a time when diesel costs P17 pesos per liter, I drove as far as Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte. Twice. A good 12 or so hours drive from Manila, including leisurely stops in Vigan, and Laoag City, visiting Pagudpud is a revealing experience. And twice, I pitched my tent on the grounds of Villa del Mar Ivory Beach Resort, in Saud Beach. I chose Villa del Mar because it has a nice ground where I can pitch my tent. The name Villa del Mar also reminds me of Cafe del Mar music which I like. Cool !

From inside my tent, an unobstructed view of the South China Sea.

From inside my tent, an unobstructed view of the South China Sea.

My idea of going to a faraway beach is to feel nature and to avoid crowd. I love sleeping in my tent on top of the sand than sleep in a room in the resort. There are some inconveniences, like a private toilet and bathroom but nonetheless, still I enjoy open living to nature. I am in a beach to feel the sand and the sea breeze and I don’t want to forget that. I can forego some of the usual comforts.

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In Villa del Mar, I planted myself beside one of the communal open huts (on the left) near the toilets and showers. The open hut served as my all-in-one space in this back-to-basic, informal yet fun situation. On ordinary days, these huts are empty so I have the whole place practically for myself. On weekends the picnic huts are rented out to day trippers. It could be a little noisy when extended family get together.

The ground level of Del Mar Resort is actually above the concrete embankment. Saud Beach below stretches a few kilometers and is lined with modest resorts.

The ground level of Del Mar Resort is actually above the concrete embankment. Saud Beach below stretches a few kilometers and is lined with modest resorts.

Saud Beach is the principal beach of Pagudpud. Most tourist accomodations can be found here. However, it is the Blue Lagoon Beach or Maira-ira Beach, that is considered the most beautiful beach in the North. Reportedly owned by the Ablan family, or at least the surrounding areas, the lagoon is like one big swimming pool. The sand is an off white grainy quality similar to the sand in Boat Station 3 in Boracay. The water is bluish, the sea calm and the underwater floor is deep but purely sand. There are no resorts in the area which is good in the sense that you only go here to purely enjoy the beach. It is a 20-minute drive from the main Saud Beach.

A nearly deserted  Blue Lagoon Beach cove seen from a higher elevation.

A nearly deserted Blue Lagoon Beach cove seen from a higher elevation.

The second visit to Pagudpud in 2003 is more memorable for the Swamp Lilies I took home to Manila. Driving from the Blue Lagoon along the coastal dirt road, I chanced upon rows of Swamp Lily by the roadside. The temptation is too much to ignore so without anyone looking, I gathered every Swamp Lily stalk waiting to be unceremoniously plucked. I harvested more than 2 dozen long stalks which pleased me a lot. In Manila, the buds started opening and I enjoyed for the first time the unique and uncommon fragrance of this flower that lingered in my home for many days. If only for this, the long trip to Pagudpud was all worth it.

Discovering a new scent in Swamp Lilies.

Discovering a new scent in Swamp Lilies.

I didn’t realize until that time that one can use Swamp Lilies as cut flowers. Swamp Lilies are rather ordinary but they become extra ordinary if they are used as long-stalked cut flowers in a vase and en masse. It is only when they are en masse that the unique and very subtle scent can be really appreciated.

The condition of the flower stalks I gathered is similar to this picture.

The condition of the flower stalks I gathered is similar to this picture.

Swamp Lily is a perennial herb with bulb to 50 cm. The leaves are broad-linear light green, 50-120 cm long, 5-15 cm wide. The flowers are white with pink/purple stamens, scented, occurring in summer. The fruit globose with seeds to 5 cm matures late summer. They usually grow in coastal swamps, along coastal streams, behind dunes and around headlands.


View Pagudpud, Ilocos Norte in a larger map


I plucked these flowers from a plant nursery.

I plucked these flowers from a plant nursery.

Two varieties of fragrant Michelia.

Two varieties of fragrant Michelia.

The name Michelia honors Pietro Antonio Micheli, a Florentine botanist. Among the Michelias which belong to the Magnoliaceae family there are many wonderful species. The most famous of them all is Michelia Champaca. Michelia Champaca is an evergreen tree, native to South Asia and Southeast Asia. It is best known and cultivated for its strongly fragrant and aromatic orange-colored blooms that appear nearly all year round. It is also cultivated for timber and in urban landscaping. Its aril-covered seeds are highly attractive to birds. Some common names include champaca, champak, champa and cempaka.

Michelia Champaca can be cultivated in a greenhouse or sunroom with artificial microclimate where it grows only 10-15 ft tall. It can be easily grown indoors as well, in a large container, turning your home into a soothing oasis.

This tree is mentioned in folk tales of India. In one of the tales the minister’s daughter changed to a Champ (champaca) tree having flowers of gold. Transformation of a human body into a plant was regarded a good fortune. As this tree is regarded to be the personification of Goddess Lakshmi, it is believed to increase the wealth of the family.

Michelia  Alba or  White Champaca. Other names are Fragrant Himalayan Champaca, Joy Perfume Tree, White Sandalwood, White Champak and  Bai Yu Lan ( White Jade Flower).  In the Philippines it is called Tsampakang Puti. This flower is associated with Shanghai, China.

Michelia Alba or White Champaca. Other names are Fragrant Himalayan Champaca, Joy Perfume Tree, White Sandalwood, White Champak and Bai Yu Lan ( White Jade Flower). In the Philippines it is called Tsampakang Puti. This flower is associated with Shanghai, China.

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Michelia x Alba (Michelia Alba) is a cross between Michelia Champaca and Michelia Montana, with a fragrance similar to Michelia Champaca. The ‘X’ indicates a hybrid cross. It is a tall, evergreen tree with creamy white flowers 3″ across with a delicious sweet fragrance resembling a juicy fruit chewing gum. The flowers start emitting the perfume early in the morning; the fragrance becoming more intense during late afternoon and by night fills in the entire space around. A single flower can fill the room with delicately sweet fragrance.

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The Michelia Alba is absolutely the most exclusive perfume tree on the planet. This is the ‘Alba’ of JOY Perfume world fame, the world’s most expensive perfume. Like the Ylang-Ylang (Chanel No.5 Perfume Tree) the ultra exclusive perfume scent was created by nature then packaged as perfume by people. Delightfully, ‘Alba’ flowers produce in great quantities. Moreover, Michelia Alba has good antimicrobial properties, especially the leaves. It also has an antioxidant character with moderate effect.

Hybrids: The Thai hybrid Michelia Alba “Golden” is the object of desire of many collectors. Within three days its amazing flower with strong fragrance changes color from white to dark golden. It has somewhat compact growth habit and is a slow grower, hence can be successfully used for potting culture. Another new interesting hybrid also from Thailand is Michelia Alba “Cream”. The plant looks basically close to Michelia Alba, but the flowers are deep cream to yellowish color. It is a nice collectible item for those who enjoy Michelias in their variety. Michelia Champaca and Michelia Alba are called “chom-pii” in Thailand.

On my table is a  pair of beige small  ceramic dishes with Champacas detached from  Sampaguita leis.

On my table is a pair of beige small ceramic dishes with Champacas detached from Sampaguita leis.

In Manila, Michelia Champaca is usually sold as pendants to Sampaguitas leis.

In Manila, Michelia Champaca is usually sold as pendants to Sampaguitas leis.

In Manila unlike in Bangkok or Hongkong, the only way I can buy Champaca (Michelia Champaca or Michelia Alba) is by buying them as garlands. While the scent is strong enough to last long in the garland, the flowers easily discolor and turn brown. What I do is to cut the strings that hold the flowers and place them in a shallow dish with water. In this way, the flowers and their fragrance stay longer for more than a day.

The Champaca from the Sampaguita lei have been detached and arranged in a shallow marble tea candle holder with water. The Sampaguitas are in another dish in the center.

The Champaca from the Sampaguita lei have been detached and arranged in a shallow marble tea candle holder with water. The Sampaguitas are in another dish in the center.